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Step through the majestic Bab Bou Jeloud and leave the 21st century behind. You are entering Fez el-Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a living museum where medieval traditions don't just survive—they thrive amidst a dizzying labyrinth of 9,400 alleyways.
A Tale of Two Cities
Fez is actually three cities in one: Fez el-Bali (the old, walled city founded in the 9th century), Fez el-Jdid (the "new" Fez founded in the 13th century, home to the Royal Palace and Jewish Quarter), and the Ville Nouvelle (the modern French-built city). It is Fez el-Bali that captures the imagination of travelers.
Unlike Marrakech, which has become a polished tourist hub, Fez retains a raw, authentic edge. It is the spiritual and cultural capital of the country, a place where donkeys are the main form of transport and artisans work in the same workshops their ancestors did 500 years ago.
"Fez is a city that demands your full attention. It assaults your senses with the smell of spices and leather, the sound of the call to prayer echoing off ancient walls, and the sight of intricate mosaics around every corner."
The Artisan's Craft
Fez is famous for its craftsmanship. The medina is organized into guilds, with different souks dedicated to specific trades.
Leather
The tanneries are iconic. Visit Chouara or Sidi Moussa to see hides being treated in colorful vats of natural dyes (poppy for red, indigo for blue, saffron for yellow).
Zellige (Mosaic)
Fez is the capital of Zellige. Watch master craftsmen chip tiny geometric tile pieces by hand to create the intricate patterns that adorn fountains and palaces.
Copper & Brass
Head to Place Seffarine to hear the rhythmic banging of metalworkers shaping pots, trays, and lamps. It's a symphony of craftsmanship.
Weaving
In the fondouks around the medina, you can find weavers creating beautiful scarves, jellabas, and blankets from agave silk (sabra) and wool.
The Medina Survival Гид
1. Get Warped: You will get lost. It's part of the experience. Embrace it. If you're truly stuck, pay a local child a few dirhams to guide you back to "Bab Bou Jeloud" or your Riad.
2. "Balek!": If you hear this shouted behind you, move to the side immediately. It means "Make way!" usually for a donkey, a cart, or a porter carrying a heavy load.
3. Official Гидs: For your first day, hiring an official guide is highly recommended to help you get your bearings and understand the history without half the hassle.
4. Friday Prayer: Fez is deeply religious. On Fridays (Jumu'ah), many shops close from 11 AM to 3 PM for prayers. It's a quieter time to explore the architecture, but shopping will be limited.
Culinary Delights of Fez
The food in Fez is arguably the best in Morocco. It is the home of Pastilla (or B'stilla), a savory-sweet pie made with flaky warka dough, stuffed with pigeon or chicken, almonds, eggs, and dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
For street food, try Bessara (fava bean soup) for breakfast, or grab some Maakouda (potato fritters). And no visit is complete without endless glasses of sweet mint tea.
Proposed Itinerary: 48 Hours in Fez
Day 1: The Classics
Enter via Bab Bou Jeloud. Explore the Medersa Bou Inania. Visit the Chouara Tannery (morning is best for light). Lunch at Cafe Clock. Explore the Kairaouine Mosque exterior and the Attarine Medersa. Sunset drinks at a rooftop terrace.
Day 2: Deep Dive
Visit the Pottery Cooperative outside the walls. Return to the medina for the Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts. Explore the Jewish Mellah and the Royal Palace gates. Relax in Jnan Sbil Gardens. Dinner at a traditional Dar.
